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Sea Change: Miso on Meramec's New Sushi Chef Is The Best Thing Since Sliced Fish

Our order of salmon sashimi at Miso on Meramec came with the usual lump of wasabi paste stuck to one corner of its platter. You know it: unnaturally green and toothpaste-like but with the waxy surface and crumbly texture of Play-Doh.

Play-Doh wasabi has become such an integral part of the American sushi experience — swirled into soy sauce, a combination that looks like algae blooming atop an oil slick — that most of us never stop to ask why. The salmon sashimi certainly didn't need it. This was a simple, exquisite pleasure: The thinly sliced salmon had a clean, pure taste and a supple texture that yielded to the slightest pressure from the tongue. It required no accent.

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